Délicieusement Thaï is a delicious addition to the Capital Region

• Name + address: Délicieusement Thaï, 99 rue George Suite 101 Gatineau

• Diet: Meat, vegetarian, seafood, gluten-free

• Appetizers: $4-$24

• Mains: $9-$16

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• Licensed: No

• Website: www.delicieusement-thai.ca

On a recent trip to the Buckingham quarter of Gatineau, I noticed a new Thai restaurant and made a mental note to return for a review. I’m glad I did.

A number of Thai places (Talay Thai, Tuk Tuk, Anna Thai) have closed in the last year so it’s nice to see something new open and it’s even better when the food tastes right.

Délicieusement Thaï owners Marc Parent and Preeya Phothiphon had been operating out of another nearby location but made the move to this mini-mall in June and now enjoy increased visibility.

Marc was happy to share with me that 90% of their menu is made from scratch and that they're becoming famous for their green curry. Naturally, I was excited to taste a house-made curry paste, but I’d have to wait for another occasion as they were sold out for the day. I was advised to call ahead and reserve an order.

I ordered a few classics from their modest menu, including (after verifying that they do not use ketchup) Pad Thai. But first up was a bracing Tom Yum soup.

When made well this soup blows up the taste buds in every direction: hot, sour, salty, sweet, settling you into a warm embrace.

That was the case here. The broth looked more fiery than it actually was, but the sensations were a delight, and I was pleased by the depth of flavours Chef Preeya had extracted. The last time I had a version this good was in Toronto at Sala Thai and if you’re a soup fan and need a fortifying fix, this is your new best destination for Tom Yum.

Pad Thai may be Thailand’s most famous culinary export, but North American eateries have allowed laziness and lack of kitchen talent to dictate how it’s made, too often relying on ketchup to make up the majority of the sauce.

Traditionally this noodle dish is made using fish sauce, lime juice, tamarind paste and palm sugar and that’s how they make it here. Marc even shared that they grind their own tamarind paste. 

Taste is key of course but the texture of the noodle must be correct as well and Preeya uses a higher quality rice noodle, allowing for a more toothsome chew. All the elements were there but I did wish for a little more salt from the fish sauce and a bit more tang from the lime. 

The spring rolls were a little more stuffed than I expected at a Thai eatery but still very good. The pork roll was meaty and balanced with veg and as nice as that was, the vegetarian Shiitake mushroom roll took the prize. A terrific appetizer and perhaps the nicest veggie roll I’ve enjoyed this year. I can only recommend it.

Pad Kee Mao is another Thai classic and it may be the spiciest of the noodle dishes in Thai cuisine.

I asked for my version to be toned down but wider slices of fresh hot pepper were left in the dish both for colour or that hit of heat if I wanted it.

It was robustly flavoured but balanced by what felt to me like the use of a sweet soy that laid a good foundation on the wider noodles, making them even more slurpable. Really good.

The accompanying chicken special of scallions, carrots and bean sprouts was anything but simple as the sauce revealed hidden depths of umami goodness that unfolded with each bite.

Chicken, like pork, can very quickly take on the taste of the fridge if cooked ahead of time but Preeya cooked this chicken to order and to tender perfection. For once, I actually enjoyed chicken breast.

Perhaps they’re not accustomed to having folks dine in because the dishes came served in takeaway containers. I asked and they were able to provide me with a few plates, and it’s my hope that this will become the norm.

Next summer, Marc and Preeya plan to roll out something truly unique to our region: Suki Thai. This is a combination of both hot pot and a tabletop grill. Based on my experience here, I will be back for that with a smile on my face and an appetite for the flavours that Preeya conjures.