Akka brings the flavours of a coastal Palestinian city to Ottawa

If there’s one thing we can say about Ottawa’s food scene, when it comes to Middle Eastern foods, we don’t take a backseat to anyone.

From Afghani to Yemeni cuisines, we have some pretty fine representation. The newest eddition is Akka. Not only a northern Palestinian coastal city dating back centuries, but its old city is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. I suggest a look at its Wikipedia page for a more detailed history.

It’s also the birthplace of chef and family matriarch, Tahani Zawani. According to her sons, it was always her dream to own a restaurant. They came together to make it happen. 

I, for one, am glad that she can share the food of her homeland with us.

From the moment you walk in, you understand that the family intends to provide a different experience of its cuisine. This is not a takeaway shop. It’s meant for the gathering of friends and family in a more elevated setting. One item of note: there is a bar, but as this restaurant is halal and the family observe Islamic laws around alcohol consumption so none is served.

It goes without saying that you’ll want to start with Palestinian classics like hummus and the eggplant-based mutabal. They’re both expertly blended, almost unreal in their creaminess and served with house-baked pita. Yes, they proudly proclaim that everything is made in-house.

Another fine appetizer choice is Kunafa Shrimp. Three extra-large shrimp are wrapped in threads of katalfi dough and then deep-fried. They are served on little pools of their yogurt-based signature sauce. The first bite pops with strong shrimp flavour.

If you’re curious, you'll continue with the falafel stuffed with sumac, onions, tahini and shatta. Shatta is a paste made of red or green crushed chilies, salt, olive oil and an acidifying agent like vinegar or lemon juice.

It’s a much punchier expression of falafel. Each mouthful is packed with meaty umami while remaining vegan.

As readers know I love the falafel produced by Chickpeas. While this is a different interpretation, it’s equally memorable.

Certain animal proteins like beef and lamb in particular have soared in cost over the last years. So much so that it’s almost, despite the price, worth having these items at restaurants. You don’t have to cook and you stay out of your home kitchen heat as temperatures increase.

Mansaf is one of the most popular Palestinian dishes. Saj bread is topped with a saffron, cardamom, cinnamon rice, an incredibly tender lamb shank and a warm yogurt sauce. It peeled off the bone with little effort. There was an appealing perfumed note to the dish that reminded me of warmed honey.

The rice, given a textural contrast using almonds and having been soaked in those magnificent lamb juices, made for a happy mouthful with every forkful of lamb.

Sayadeyi (“fisherman’s dish”) is whole-grilled seabass. It’s plated on spiced long-grain rice that felt a little different from what was served with the lamb. Spices commonly used are cumin, cinnamon, allspice, coriander, and turmeric. Here again it was perfectly cooked. 

Fried onions (a personal favourite) are layered on the fish. You have a little excavation ahead of you to get at the sweet seabass. 

When fish is served whole, you never know about the execution until you have your first bite. Here the fish was moist and flaked easily from the bones. It’s traditionally accompanied by a zippy tahini sauce (tarator) that adds freshness.

While the main dishes are fish, beef, lamb, or chicken, there are enough options for vegans and vegetarians to enjoy a full meal. 

After dinner, I was so satisfied that I introduced myself. Akka had only been open for a month, so Tahani and her sons, Mohammed, Ahmad and Abraham, were all present. 

It was one of those meetings where you immediately feel the love and respect of the sons for their mother. When you come away with a feeling like that, it’s easy to become overly poetic. I’ll say it anyway – that love is mirrored back to us through Tahani's food. 

You are in ummi’s (mother’s) home and it’s filled with a generous spirit. That spirit carries with it a long tradition through the recipes and the welcome at the door.