Classic Haitian food at Margo's with a price you can afford

• Name + address: Margo, 1563 Bank St.

• Type of food: Haitian, take-away only

• Appetizers: $3-$12

• Mains:$12-$24

• Diet: meat, fish and one vegetarian dish

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• LCBO Licensed: No

• Website: margorestaurant.com

It’s fair to say that Haitian food is marked by two things: almost everything sees the deep fryer and it’s hearty stick-to-your-ribs food.

It’s also a cultural touchstone (as all cuisines are) for those people who are living away from their homeland. The tastes and aromas of certain dishes can well bring significant memories and emotions, such is the power of food beyond simple nourishment.

Occasionally, some restaurants can leave their proteins for too long in the deep fryer, drying them out. At Margo there’s a little more care involved and the seasonings are pretty darn good.

Margo restaurant now has two locations and at both you’ll find a $9 lunch special (Mon-Fri 12-3 pm) that offers classic Haitian fare nicely done.

With my lunch specials both the pork and the chicken had been judiciously brined through and then fried to the point of retaining just the right amount of moisture to make for pleasant eating.

The rice and beans were delicious. The rice was not dry and neither was it overcooked but the beans were done to creamy perfection, the sweet rendered starch marrying so nicely

Then there was the chicken patty that was similar in appearance to a Jamaican patty but was, of course, deep fried. The shredded chicken and vegetables were deliciously seasoned but I did find the thicker dough just a little too stodgy.

I’ll conclude with the pikliz, an inspired Haitian coleslaw that is sometimes viewed as a condiment. Easy enough to do when the stuff is as fiery as it often is. Making it milder however allows you to enjoy it as a healthy side dish.

Pikliz can be made in a variety of ways but one thing that gives it character is the use of scotch bonnet peppers. These bring significant heat but it’s also a pepper that has a distinct flavour that works so well against the cool shredded cabbage. The Margo version is the best I’ve yet had in Ottawa and they are well worth visiting just for that.