Craving Chinese takeout in Vanier? Lai Lai has you covered

I’m on record as saying that when ordering takeaway, I recommend avoiding using apps that exploit both workers and restaurants. My supposed comfort does not outweigh the deleterious costs to others.

I also understand that it’s becoming increasingly difficult to make ethical decisions in our current climate. But those options still do exist, and I’m glad that some restaurateurs are staying old school.

Typically, I avoid leaving information online as much as possible, so I prefer calling to place an order. When I called Lai Lai and requested my dishes, I was told “Ready in 20 minutes”. I hung up and realized she hadn’t asked for my name and number. 

That moment took me back. I was reminded that trust is a currency in which some people still trade. Yes, it’s a small thing, but it’s not without meaning.

Moo She (despite the spelling, it’s still pronounced as Moo Shoe) is a mess of chopped vegetables and meats, drizzled with hoisin sauce and wrapped in gossamer wheat wrappers.

It was an outsized amount of goodness for the six wrappers you’re given. Luckily, this dish has an upgrade built in, as you may want to purchase another six wrappers ($4.50) so you can feed everyone.

It was a very credible version with a lot of freshness. Yet the accompanying “hoisin” sauce tasted more like a sweetened soy sauce with a tiny amount of hoisin added. It was good but lacked the fuller spice I expected.

The next dishes represented some old favourites: beef in black bean sauce, Almond guy ding and Singapore noodles. 

In all dishes, the proteins had been velvetized and were tender enough for ease of eating. This provided the right amount of contrast to the snap of the colourful vegetables. 

A black bean sauce made from fermented black beans is always an umami-packed experience. It’s a disappointment, therefore, to find that the sauce used here tasted like a jarred commercial variety. It lacked depth and was a little too sweet. 

Almond Guy Ding is a classic of the North American Chinese variety. I admit it’s one of my guilty pleasures when I eat at Golden Palace. They make a proper one and it always takes me back to my childhood when I first ate it there.

This dish is all about textural contrasts. A silky chicken stock-based sauce thickened with corn starch, enrobing tender chicken breast and crunchy celery, water chestnuts and blanched whole almonds.

Lai Lai’s is also very nice but they’ve added broccoli. It’s not common, but I’m always happy for more broccoli in my takeaway. 

The Singapore noodles were plentiful and listed as “spicy”. I can confirm that spicy has nothing to do with this dish. 

In terms of ingredients and execution, it was as good as many variations I’ve had, but it was lacking flavour. I needed more curry sensation. Sadly, it was only the colour that suggested its presence. 

The shrimp used were watery in taste. My advice is always, when using shrimp like this, just leave them out entirely. There’s no benefit.

Lai Lai moved to this new location in a strip mall approximately 18 months ago. In their previous location on MacArthur, they had a full dine-in option. Today it’s just a counter at which you order. 

Everything is there to make this a more memorable experience. The food is generous in portion, and the ingredients are fresh. There’s obvious experience in cooking, but it just lacks seasoning.

Perhaps they’re still catering to a legacy clientele with more timid palates. I suggest it doesn’t need to be that way. Amp up the flavour and make the sauces using better base ingredients. 

If you’re in the mood, Lai Lai won’t disappoint you but you might want to have some of your own seasonings on hand to bump up the profiles.