Gorditas La Mexican is the real deal. And almost no one knows it

Talk about a hidden gem… Gorditas La Mexican has been open for under a year. You’d think that with all the people I talk to and the numerous tips I get, I’d have heard of this restaurant. 

Instead, watching the lunchtime crowd, I got the distinct feeling that it wanted to remain unknown. It’s also deep into an industrial park, so you’re not likely to see it in normal travels.

In Spanish, “Gordita” is a term of endearment meaning “little fat one.” It’s an expression of warmth and love. 

In Mexico, it’s also a street food. From my experience at Gorditas La Mexican, it’s most definitely an expression of warmth and love.

Soon after being seated, we were brought an assortment of condiments and toppings. Shredded cabbage with cilantro, lime wedges, tomatoes, onions and both a red and (hotter) green salsa.

My appetite was building. With the delivery of these toppings, we were expecting to eat soon. Instead, we would wait another 45 minutes. I’m not clear on what the situation was because after the food came, people who had just been seated were eating in short order.

Over the next 90 minutes, the room was either half or three-quarters full. Happily, the Latin sounds over the speakers were at a moderate level. Unfortunately, it was the combination of both low ceilings and enthusiastic conversations that made the experience quite loud.

Gorditas La Mexican is licensed but limits their alcohol offerings to beer. If you want to enjoy a brew the traditional way, they will put together a Michelada for you with Clamato and a Tajin-rimmed glass. It may sound curious, but if you enjoy Clamato, this is a fun and refreshing alternative to a Caesar.

With the food on the table, we dug in, post-haste, intoxicated by the aromas of the warm and crisp corn shells.

The menu is limited to two soups, one with tripe and the other with “trotters and ear”, one taco and 11 variations on gorditas. You can finish off your meal with a selection of four different desserts.

Regulars of Mexican cuisine may be surprised by such a small menu, but what you’ll find is one mouthful after another that is memorable. What they do here, they do exceptionally well.

Gorditas are traditionally made with masa (Spanish for “dough”), ground corn that has been nixtamalized. Here you can also choose to have your gorditas made with wheat flour.  

It doesn’t matter that they have three vegetarian versions — all their gorditas are boldly announced as having been fried in “pork lard”. Bless them. This adds an extra crispiness and unctuous flavour.

From the perspective of inclusion, however, I would recommend offering a vegetable oil option.

One of my favourites was the Gordita de Rajas (poblano pepper, tomato, onion and cheese). It was an acute reminder of why poblanos are the most delicious of all green peppers. This veggie option will make you forget about meat. 

I did try the one taco Conchinita Pibil consisting of pulled pork marinated in achiote (ground annato seeds, cumin, coriander seeds, garlic, black pepper and cloves) and citrus. The taco was loaded and dripping with juices. This was slow-cooked pork done right. I will go on record now stating that I’ve never had a better pibil taco.

The other gorditas I enjoyed were the Picadillo (ground beef, tomato and onion) and the Papas Verdes (potatoes, pork in green sauce). Less successful, because it felt dry, was the Choriqueso (Mexican sausage with cheese). However, I warmed it in the oven the next morning for breakfast and it was much better than on the day before. 

In fact, all their gorditas are great as leftovers. Just warm them in a regular oven. 

I have the feeling that Gorditas La Mexican has become a meeting place for Ottawa’s Mexican community. I’m not of that heritage, of course, but if I were, I have the feeling that this is what my grandmother (abuela) would cook.

This is home cooking. It’s street food, and you may just be touched as much as I was by its deliciousness and its honesty.