With Peking Duck, fine Chinese dining arrives in Ottawa

• 90 George St. ByWard market

• Dishes: $10.99 to $88

• Accessibility via elevator

• Gluten-free and vegetarian options

It was when I got to Grade 7 that it became clear we were obviously heading into adulthood and that good Catholic girls and boys were meant to pair up. In hindsight it seems absurd but at Holy Rosary, it really was like an epidemic.

In any case, I had a girlfriend for a few weeks and on my way to her house I would walk by a Chinese restaurant at the corner of Somerset and Arthur, named Chiu Wah. So as my birthday approached, I was surprised when my parents asked me where I would like to have a celebratory dinner. My reply was immediate: Chiu Wah.

It was there that my love of Chinese cuisine was cemented. I shocked my parents by inhaling giant prawns in black bean sauce and my father wondered aloud how I could enjoy eating “insects.”

Decades later, the food scene has changed for the better in Ottawa but there remains a dearth of authentic, world-class Chinese restaurants in the capital. Until the arrival of Peking Duck at 90 George St.

Peking Duck is not just their house specialty but an international brand unto itself. Their history goes back to the mid-1800s promoting the traditional cuisine of the Qing dynasty. With such tradition, it will not surprise anyone that items such as carrots in abalone sauce, duck tongue soup, spicy pork kidney in sizzling broth and braised pork intestine are on the menu.

That said, there is plenty of fine eating for the more westernized palate with dishes such as mapo tofu, sweet and sour pineapple pork, sauteed lamb with scallions or kung pao chicken.

The list goes on.

The Peking duck itself is available by the half for $48 only at lunch and the whole for $88 at any time. It is served with steamed pancakes and a number of sides with which to wrap the duck. It is recommended that you order yours 24 hours in advance.

Tan Tan noodle at Peking Duck is the nicest expression I’ve yet had. Commonly, this peanut-sauce based soup comes served with a thick broth or even paste, but here it comes as it’s meant to be served, as a delicious, mildly spicy soup. It’s also a terrific deal at $12.99.

It's clear that this restaurant is a destination for diplomats and the otherwise well-heeled, but let it not deter you from enjoying the expertise of the kitchen team. Management informed me that top dollar was paid to encourage one of Toronto's finest chefs to join the staff in Ottawa. Everything at Peking Duck is meant to impress: from the environs to the dinnerware to the three private dining rooms. This is not just for its own sake but in respect of tradition and the service that comes from a great cuisine with a rich history.

Crispy Peking-style pork meatballs come to the table in an attractive serving cradle alongside a dish of ketchup. Double-take. This actually works, however. The umami of the condiment is a welcome counterpoint to the savoury dried shrimp-inflected pork.

The Chinese cabbage dressed with sesame paste, honey and vinegar is a revelation of texture and taste. I'll just call it scrumptious. Tender hearts of napa cabbage are cleaned and frozen before dressing and served sprinkled with black sesame seeds. A simple and inventive dish perfect for even the most timid eater.

The service here is first rate. Many different servers will come to your table but remain unobtrusive while you dine. What I neglected to mention is that you must get the jasmine tea. It's superb and of a quality you would expect at this level of dining. Have that alongside the adorable buttery duck-shaped pastries stuffed with date paste and this is one joyous close to a singular dining experience.

Peking Duck is in its soft-opening phase and I can attest that there have been hiccups in my attempts to get a reservation. This should be resolved soon as they prepare to launch for the general public. There is also talk that a dim sum menu may be added before year's end, but I couldn't pin anyone down on that.

After all these decades Ottawa has a Chinese restaurant worthy of world-class status. Go. Go and celebrate.