Unique, world-class spirits from Kanata at Stratford Fox Run

Canadians are discovering wonderful things being created by local artisans and this week we’ve narrowed our focus on Canadian Whiskey with producers in and around Ottawa.

I stopped in to see Adam Brierley at Stratford Fox Run (SFR) in Kanata. I had first heard of his project when it was known as Ogham. 

He’d started Ogham seven years ago but soon thereafter took on an investor and the business was rebranded to SFR. 

When I arrived, I was surprised to see a new brewery opening directly next door, but again it was just a rebranding of the established Evergreen Craft Ales. The new brewery will have a Western Canadian theme and will go by the name of Pistol Brewery. It is also owned by the investor in SFR. It’s scheduled to open mid-April.

Adam came by his interest in distilling naturally and the way many in food and drink do; out of a curiosity about origins and the stories around how things got to be as they are.

His nascent talent took him to different places and educational institutes and back to Ottawa to open Ogham (the Celtic God of elocution) Distilling.

He began making a name for himself by creating spirits generally not seen in our market: Poitin (Irish moonshine) Bierschnapps (distillate using beer) and Apple Eau de Vie using surplus apple cider from Farmgate Cider

Not one to miss a creative opportunity he has now created a green Chartreuse alternative. Industry word has it that the LCBO will no longer have access to this world-famous cocktail component. Necessity being the mother of invention we may yet see more Chartreuse alternatives hitting the shelves. I can report that Adam’s Monk's Secret is a very fine approximation of the original both as a simple sipper and in great cocktails such as The Last Word. There are sufficient similarities to make hardcore Chartreuse fans glad for this option.

I wasn’t surprised to learn that Monk’s Secret has fast become a popular back bar item for mixologists around the city and as its popularity grows, you can expect delays in replenishing your stock. Yes, it is that good.

What became clear through my tastings is that Adam’s products largely represent only the heart of his distillates and almost none of the heads or tails, those off-flavour cuts found in the distillation process.

Newly in stock is the Ogham Maple Eau de Vie made from 100% maple sap. Given this fact, the maple character is a little more muted than if it had been made from syrup. You can certainly experiment with this as you would vodka, but I recommend their recipe for the vegan maple cream cookie cocktail. You may also want to add 1 oz of Maple Eau de Vie to 2 oz of the Scamp’s Reward Whiskey and ½ oz of maple syrup for a warming fireside liqueur.  

Scamp’s Reward Whiskey may be Rye dominant, but the balance is perfect with 45% corn in the mash bill giving it an immediate core of sweetness with a little peppery rye on the finish. 

It’s a very elegant drop with a smoothness and perfume reminiscent of beeswax that translates to the palate providing a good deal of length on the finish. 

As their website suggests, you will perceive some orange and caramel but there’s also a pleasantly nutty wood note followed by vanilla and baking spices. Frankly, it took me straight back to Christmas in the kitchen.

Scamp’s Reward is a Canadian whiskey with elegance, an appealingly complex and subtle profile and should be on the experienced whiskey lovers bar.

QUICK BITES

• Fairouz in the ByWard Market is set to close and be replaced by three businesses under one roof. [Byward-Market.com]

• You’ve heard of “manna from heaven?” Well manna is a real thing and it’s back. Check out this interesting story. [BBC]

• The U.S. enclave of Point Roberts struggles for its existence as tariffs leave it devastated in this story. [YouTube]

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