Go hungry, leave happy at the Manx

The origins of the pub go back to Roman Britain, where the Romans established taverns. The pub, as it’s known today, however, only saw widespread success beginning in the early 1800s.

These establishments not only provided food and drink but also became centres of local news sharing and political discourse. 

In contemporary times, and it’s especially true in North America, the “pub” has morphed into a place for trivia nights, loud music and watching sports. 

Although more limited, some of these North Americanisms in pub culture have also been adopted by the British.

I recall being in the Chelsea neighbourhood of London when a football match between Germany and England took place at Wembley Stadium. Legacy pubs (and by that I mean much smaller venues than modern sports bars) everywhere had set up screens with fans spilling onto the sidewalks to catch the game. Beer was served through the open windows directly onto the street. 

Germany won the match and I never revealed my sympathies. Good move.

You’ll have no such concerns at The Manx Pub. Since they opened in 1993, other than periodic live performances on a Saturday or Sunday, they’ve stayed with a philosophy of no screens and no music. 

Halfway through my time there, I stopped eating and spent a few moments taking in the sound of human voices in conversation. No distractions, just the sound of people finding their way back to the art of listening. 

A friend and I were seated in the furthest nook to the left of the bar, where they had installed a pass. Through here, our server conveniently handed us our beer and my soup appetizer.

The soup, jalapeno cheddar, was a wholesome balance of a little spice buoyed by a medium-aged cheese built on a foundation of potato. Nothing too salty but with a warming texture that was just right for the weather. The accompanying thick-sliced and well-buttered sourdough toast was a beautiful vehicle for dunking. A superior bread.

It was another example of how easy it is for pubs to produce delicious and healthy food, from scratch, and not rely on pre-made frozen items from food service companies. This is where my money wants to go.

Everything at the Manx is made in their kitchen, including the bread and their luscious garlic aioli.

I ordered their famous Furlonger Club Sandwich, which came with skin-on wedge potatoes. The aioli was a fantastic dip for the sweet, crisp spuds and the sandwich is rightfully one of their best sellers.

The roast chicken was tender and moist, bracketed by decent out-of-season tomatoes and a lovely back bacon that gave that umami punch.

On the chalkboard, you’ll find daily specials. On the day I visited they had a beef burger crowned with a delicious and mild in-house kimchi. The same wedge potatoes came along for the ride, and the fresh and colourful salad was dressed in the Manx mildly sweet citrus dressing.

It was a thicker patty with an appealing char from the griddle, but so well prepared that it was one juicy bite after another. Rather than heat, the kimchi added a crunchy sweetness.

If you’re there for the beer, you can enjoy twenty brews (and one cider) on tap from very good Canadian producers such as Beyond the Pale, Collective Arts and Bellwoods. 

You know where I’m going with this. The Manx speaks to me. It may be a generational thing, but it’s also the care they put into simple pub staples that remind us how wonderful and comforting pub food can be. 

In the end, you can more fully appreciate dining with friends at a place without distractions and if you’re on your own, well... the relative silence is golden