Going ga ga for 98 La La Noodles

• Name and Address: 98 La La Noodle, 179 George St.

• Type of food: Northern Chinese Noodles and Soups

• Appetizers: $4.99-$7.99

• Mains: $13.99-$33

• Diet: meat, seafood, vegetarian and some gluten free items

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• LCBO Licensed: Beer

• Website: 98 La La Noodle

From the opening lines on their website: “Our broth is freshly made every day and cooked for more than 20 hours by using 15 chickens and 40 kg of beef. No artificial colorings, additives or preservatives, only pure deliciousness.”

Well that seems about right. The flavours at 98 La La Noodle are bold and with each dish it’s clear — you’re getting your money's worth.

This is my go-to spot in the ByWard for Asian noodles and for many years now, they’ve not disappointed. The service can at times be forgetful but don’t let that test your patience, the food is worth it and you won’t wait long.

They specialize in noodle soups but have a good selection of stir-fried noodle dishes available for all tastes. 

If you’re lucky enough to be there at the right time you can watch the magic of hand-pulling noodles unfold. Personally, when I watch this artistry, I avoid over-thinking it. I just want to be mesmerized.

The noodles are made in different widths as either round or flat and if you ask the server, they will direct you as to which noodle best suits a certain dish. 

This is cuisine from northern China so expect plenty of flavour and spice in the form of szechuan pepper and cumin. The lamb skewers are a classic of the region so please don’t miss these. 

Yet my favourite appetizer here is a pickled cabbage salad, loaded with plenty of dried red chili and dressed in Chinkiang vinegar (aka black vinegar made from brown rice). Black vinegar has an intense umami effect and if you’re a little addicted to this sensation then this salad will have you at the trough and no amount of szechuan peppercorn spice will stop you. The cool vegetable crunch is in sharp contrast to the seasoning and an adventure in itself.

The hot/cold contrast extends to other dishes such as the noodles with minced pork. The noodles and vegetables are cold but topped with a warm pork in a slightly sweet, dark bean paste.

It’s important to note that certain dishes are limited to either “small” or “large” and for my appetite, here at La La Noodle, a small is always large enough. Yet I love their spicy beef noodle soups and sometimes you’re just stuck with a large size, which means you get two meals for the price of one. They do a brisk trade in takeaway containers.

The beef broth, in spite of the temperature and spice, is gulpable. Beef fat mingling with chili oil, little logs of coriander stems and floating islands of scallions adorn the surface of this broth and it’s intoxicating in sight and smell. The beef is supremely tender, made from tougher cuts that once cooked through, retain their deep beef flavour.

Then there’s the matter of the noodles. In my visits, they have always been perfect. Always with the ideal toothsomeness and never falling apart and thus leaching their starch into the broth.

It may be a humble noodle shop but the care that goes into their food is first rate. Remember also that you are eating at a restaurant that serves traditional fare such as dishes with jellyfish and something called “chitterlings.” This is usually pigs intestine that is cooked into soups. If that is uncommon for some, just think about the casing on the next sausage you eat.

Drinks are limited to sodas, tea and Sapporo and Tsing Tao beer. They do have Kichesippi beer on draught but have been out my last two visits. Here’s hoping this gets remedied soon.