AAA Noodles for A-1 flavour

• Name + address: AAA Noodles, 717 Somerset St. W.

• Type of food: Chinese

• Appetizers: $5-$12

• Mains: $16-$20

• Diet: Meat, seafood, vegetarian

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• Licensed: No

• Website: www.aaanoodles.ca

Newly renovated and in the digs long occupied by Peter’s So Good, Amazing Authentic Artisan Noodles opened late last year and seeing it for the first time as I drove past, I knew it would soon be on the calendar.

Peter So’s restaurant had been a favourite on my frequent visits to Ottawa. The portions were healthy and the food was big on flavour. After decades in the business Peter So retired and he sold the business to one of his chefs.

The space now is a refreshingly bright and modern change from the rough and tumble environs that was So Good.

I began with, as usual, spring rolls and was neither surprised nor disappointed. The four rolls were well constructed with the usual fillings of seasoned cabbage and carrot. The vegetables had a creamy texture and tasted fine but I couldn’t shake the feeling that I’d had these same rolls many times at many different restaurants.

The menu at AAA Noodles is small but large enough, given the quality, to warrant repeat visits.

Of course I was here for a serious bowl of noodle soup and my heart skipped a beat when I saw oxtail on the menu.

It may come as a surprise to some but oxtail is fairly common in the German kitchen and so it’s a taste dear to me and I order it when I can.

It was a substantial bowl and the aromas wafting from the surface stimulated the appetite. The soup was exotically seasoned and I felt entirely free from MSG. I was having none of my usual reactions and by the time I’d finished I was not chugging glasses of water. 

The noodles themselves were toothsome and delightfully firm and when I asked, I was told that they do indeed make them fresh each day. It’s easy to tell and they were expert in every way. 

While the oxtail was flavourful and partially soft, this particular part of the beast takes an inordinate amount of cooking time to get right and it was not as tender as it could have been.

That said, given the purity of the broth and the quality of the noodles, I will return to sample more from this modest but very good kitchen.

Suggested stories:

• Where to eat well for less in Chinatown.

• Yi Ryo has soup buns and more for an affordable lunch.

• K, Let’s Eat has Korean fried chicken for the soul.