Four cheese gnocchi stars at Del Piacere

• Name + address: Del Piacere, 416 Preston St.

• Type of food: Italian

• Appetizers: $8-$20

• Mains: $15-$38

• Diet: Meat, seafood, vegetarian, dishes made gluten free on request

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• LCBO Licensed: Yes

• Website: www.delpiacere.ca

Open seven days a week, stop in at any time at Del Piacere and you can see how well loved by locals it is. Certainly their 15-inch Neapolitan-style pizzas represent one of the best pizza values in the city, but there is so much more to recommend.

My first great experience of fritto misto (mixed, fried seafood) was in Porto Ischia, the capital of the eponymous island not far from Napoli. The fish had just been caught and immediately delivered to the seaside cantina. In less than an hour, it landed in front of me gently battered and seasoned.

We can’t expect that degree of freshness anywhere in the capital, but at Del Piacere they demonstrate an equally light touch in the timing of the dish. Large, flavourful shrimp alongside sweet and tender rings of calamari are flash-fried and served with lemon wedges and a side of cocktail sauce.

It’s so good that, along with a pint, it’s on my short list for those seeking a quick and delicious solo lunch.

Everything fresh is the hallmark of the classic Caprese salad. It made its first appearance in the early 1920s on the island of Capri (just south of Ischia) and was meant to be a representation of Italian pride in that it mimicked the colours of the flag.

Out of season, it’s difficult to enjoy a Caprese salad as it’s meant to be but at Del Piacere they go out of their way to find the best tomatoes available.

Thickly cut slices of tomato are topped with fresh mozzarella and basil and then drizzled with olive oil and a balsamic reduction. It’s enough to share and the presentation is appealing.

If you want to go lighter still, the Insalata Italia is a bargain at $16. Romaine lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, boiled eggs, prosciutto cotto and fontina cheese with dressing on the side, makes for a satisfying and filling lunch.

I decided to dive into the deep end of the calorie pool and almost drowned.

My potato gnocchi in a four cheese sauce arrived served in a bowl made of cheese and its aroma was intoxicating. It was very rich but thankfully it came with two cherry tomato halves. For fiber I guess.

When well made, gnocchi are often described as “pillowy” and here the texture was light, airy and simply a dream. The mouthfeel of gnocchi can be silky which is why it pairs best in a cheese sauce. The experience at Del Piacere was on point in all the ways that count, the sauce was properly liaised and without the excess taste of thickening flour I so often dread in this kind of sauce.

I got out of the pool before I could finish my final lap. I was happy but exhausted.

Their drinks list is fairly standard but they do offer a few things both in wine and beer that are worth having. So if you’re a little picky about these libations, you won’t feel abandoned.

Del Piacere is the kind of restaurant that every neighbourhood wishes it had. It gives patrons fresh, flavourful cuisine true to its heritage at very fair prices. These are folks that simply want to feed you well and see you satisfied. Just like at nonna’s.

• The very good Del Piacere pizza was reviewed as part of last year's pizza safari.

• Cantina Gia, fine Italian food in the Glebe