Great Canadian whisky? Turn to this essential guide

“This is a vegetarian restaurant. I didn’t know about this place. My family would love this.”

I was sitting down with Davin de Kergommeaux, author of Canadian Whisky at Cheese and Olives, to talk about his book and what inspired his fascination with this great Canadian product. 

He went on to explain that years ago his family encouraged a vegetarian diet, but that he’s still an omnivore when on the road.

As the foremost authority on Canada’s finest spirit, he does get around, having just returned from London, England’s pre-eminent whisky event: Whisky Live where he conducted a masterclass on Canadian Whisky. 

Then it was on to Amsterdam for a story on the first Dutch whisky: Millstone. Master distiller Peter Van Zuidam certainly can’t have been resting much, on his page I counted 41 different bottlings. You can find that story here.

I asked Davin what first piqued his interest in whisky. His reply? “My doctor suggested that small amounts would be good for my cardiovascular health.” Clearly a medical professional practicing natural medicine.

He went on – “In the early days of the internet, I began researching whisky and eventually found a guy in Amsterdam who also had an interest in whisky. We started corresponding back and forth and soon there were twelve of us. We called ourselves the Malt Maniacs.”

During that time he had been taking so many notes that his daughter joked he was writing a book. It turned out to be a serious idea and seven years later, in 2012, he published the first edition of Canadian Whisky. It took a further two years for the latest third edition to be fully updated with 32 new pages.

We found ourselves chatting for the better part of two hours about all manner of things to do with the industry. From the current trade challenges with the U.S. to how much better Canadian Club whiskies have become over the last years, each talking point leading to another. If only I’d brought my mini recorder. 

De Kergommeaux has put in all the legwork you’d expect from someone recognized as Canada’s foremost expert on Canadian whisky. Not only was he the founder of the Canadian Whisky Awards (now going into its 16th year), he’s been rewarded for his commitment to the industry by being inducted into Scotland's Whisky Hall of Fame. 

His knowledge is encyclopedic and he effortlessly casts about little-known facts from the past that even have a particular relevance today. 

Historically, we know for example, that Canada has stood by the side of our American cousins through a number of crises and that includes prohibition. Once again it was Canada to the rescue when it allowed the Pennsylvania whisky brand Old Overholt to be distilled in Canada during this time.

Davin pointed out that there are now approximately 250 distilleries operating in Canada and this was my cue to point out the obvious: with so many producers of whisky, why do we only ever see the same brands on LCBO shelves? 

His answer echoed my own view: “The Ontario government is not particularly receptive to small distilleries.” Even now, when we should be consolidating support for our local spirit artisans and with more shelf space available than ever, little effort has been made to showcase smaller producers. 

This is yet another example, in my view, of the obsolescence of the LCBO which is in dire need of an upgrade or risk a complete dismantling. They have such a convoluted system of how products are added to their inventory that the bureaucrats choose to keep great Canadian products off the shelves.

This is also a chief reason why the latest edition of his book is such a valuable resource for lovers of whisky: he introduces the reader to dozens of new producers complete with tasting notes. 

His history of Canadian whisky distilleries reads like the proverbial Who’s Who of this world. Seagrams, Corby, Molson, Wiser’s and so many others are given their due and there are entire chapters on the newest distilleries on the landscape. 

More than just a history with tasting notes, in chapters seven and eight, Canadian Whisky covers taste, aromas and textures as well as how to approach a whisky tasting. A valuable tool when hosting your own whisky tasting with friends.

What does the author himself look for in a whisky? 

“For me the number one characteristic is that the whisky is balanced with no dominating flavours. You should be able to taste the craftsmanship making them authentic entities.”

But back to Canadian Club. We all drank this, I expect, during our university years, moving on to pricier and more sophisticated whiskies as we started to have incomes. Then, a few years back, I tried a new Canadian Club product named 100% Rye. It was a knockout rye at an entry-level price and next I tried the Canadian Club 12 Year. Another winner. What had happened?

Maria Palafox happened. Palafox is the chief blender with Alberta Distillers which is owned by Suntory Global Spirits the parent company also behind Canadian Club. I didn’t know of her until Davin solved the mystery for me. This woman had single-handedly taken my cynicism and converted it into admiration, demonstrating how an experienced palate can change the fortunes of a brand.

This was just one revelation in understanding Canada’s ascendancy in the global whisky market. We’ve been making whisky for 200 years, but until just a decade ago have lagged behind in innovation in craft distilling. 

De Kergommeaux’s book amply illustrates how much that has changed and why, soon, Canadian whiskies will achieve the caché reserved for brands from Scotland and America. We may be different, but we’re not lesser. An emboldening message that Canadians are embracing.

His book is available through his website or at independent bookstores such as Octopus Books where owner Lisa will be glad to bring it in.