More than just meats, Moe’s BBQ sizzles

• Name + address: Moe’s BBQ. 2446 Bank St.

• Type of food: Southern BBQ

• Sides: $5

• Mains: $18 - $34

• Diet: Halal. Some vegetarian sides

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• LCBO Licensed: No

• Website: Moe’s BBQ

Every once in a little while, you have the good fortune of coming across a place that surprises you in all the right ways.

My friend Adriana, who works nearby, recommended I try a local BBQ joint. She’d heard good things and thought I might want to know about it. Of course I went the same day.

Their curious hours (Seven days a week: 2-10 pm, 2-11 pm on Fridays and Saturdays) happened to fit my schedule, so I sat down for a late lunch.

The atmosphere is meant to be warming. Wood planks line the walls and copper plumbers piping spells out Moe’s BBQ along one wall. Three screens (two of which broadcast roaring fireplaces) sit above the order counter and the place is redolent with the smell of hickory and maple smoke.

I’m no different from many people; I do love good barbeque. Just not very often. My experiences in the ByWard market made certain of that. 

I had however had great experiences over the years when rolling bbq convoys made their way up from the States to places like Toronto and Burlington.

There’s a reason these folks are known as “Pit Masters.” That title is earned and deserves to be taken as seriously as any chef title. You need a serious palate and the sensibility that only decades of experience can bring to get it right.

Mobeen (Moe), whose family is from Pakistan, told me about the tradition of charcoal grilling in his home country. When he chose to open his own restaurant almost four years ago, he decided to marry it to the flavours of southern American barbeque.

Moe’s BBQ is a Halal restaurant and in the current economic climate, this brings its own challenges. There is, of course, no pork on the menu so we’re left with chicken and beef. Beef prices have shot up by 30 percent the last year and Moe’s needs to pass it on to us. We may not like the increase but my feeling is: this is still a value proposition. The quality of the beef is first rate as is the execution.

Moes uses hickory and maple wood for their smoke recipes and it’s expertly done. Often, in lesser establishments, the barbeque character comes in the form of liquid smoke, a derivative that comes across as artificial and unpalatable. 

I’ll offer a general impression of the meat and say that from brisket to beef ribs to chicken, it’s all supple, moist and seasoned judiciously. Not too much smoke nor too much salt and yes, the ribs and chicken are best eaten off the bone. All meals come with the choice of two sides.

As good as the protein is, I’m not convinced that the sides play second fiddle. The baked beans, made with either pinto or navy beans, are made from dried beans leaving them with a little more starchy resistance when eating and are at this point, the nicest baked beans I’ve had. And what’s with their sauce? Add a straw to that.

The mac and cheese is mild but with sufficient flavour avoiding the insipid. It’s also cooked al dente for which I’m grateful. Coleslaw is a fresh and snappy side once again bragging about its homemade provenance. 

The quarter chicken leg is much larger than expected and the beef brisket is sliced thick. Any concerns about tenderness dissipate once you cut into these moist meats. The smoke ring around the brisket tells you what you need to know. It’s been prepared low and slow.

Decades ago I had the best bbq sauce of my life at the Kingston Brew Pub. They wouldn’t sell me a take-away container so I engaged in a little prevarication. The story was good enough that they agreed to sell some to me. Moe’s bbq sauce is at that level but you can get yours to take home for $5. No tall tales required.

You also need to try the city’s loveliest corn/cheddar and jalapeno bread. Moe’s life and business partner makes it daily and it offers the perfect balance of corn sweetness with a little heat.

Finally I need to say a few words about their smoked rice. They use a quality basmati rice laced with spices like cardamom and drippings from their smokers. For the love of all that is holy, this is a side dish that, for me, could double as a whole meal. I would just need more of it. 

This is humble cooking but when the execution is at this level, it deserves a few superlatives. For my money, these folks are delivering American BBQ for people with experienced palates. If you appreciate good barbeque, Moe’s is a hidden gem.

Suggested stories:

• Have a craving for spicy pork? Check out our review for Korean restaurant In’s Kitchen.

• Want a burger instead of BBQ? King Eddy has you covered with burger you need to try.

• Ramen and pork belly, there’s no better combo. Paper Tiger’s noodles are worth a visit.