More than just meats, Moe’s BBQ sizzles

Good morning,

I’m not sure how much earlier Christmas can get but a certain national grocer already had Christmas trees in their lots more than a week ago. If you bought one and plan on following the actual tradition, you won’t be taking down that tree until January 6, 2023.

For my part I will continue to provide you with interesting places to eat, reviews and suggestions for holiday beverages, gift recommendations and a few traditional recipes from my family.

So let’s get to it.

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. [email protected]

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REVIEW

Moe’s BBQ is about more than just the meat

• Name + address: Moe’s BBQ. 2446 Bank St.

• Type of food: Southern BBQ

• Sides: $5

• Mains: $18 - $34

• Diet: Halal. Some vegetarian sides

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• LCBO Licensed: No

• Website: Moe’s BBQ

Every once in a little while, you have the good fortune of coming across a place that surprises you in all the right ways.

My friend Adriana, who works nearby, recommended I try a local BBQ joint. She’d heard good things and thought I might want to know about it. Of course I went the same day.

Their curious hours (Seven days a week: 2-10 pm, 2-11 pm on Fridays and Saturdays) happened to fit my schedule, so I sat down for a late lunch.

The atmosphere is meant to be warming. Wood planks line the walls and copper plumbers piping spells out Moe’s BBQ along one wall. Three screens (two of which broadcast roaring fireplaces) sit above the order counter and the place is redolent with the smell of hickory and maple smoke.

I’m no different from many people; I do love good barbeque. Just not very often. My experiences in the ByWard market made certain of that. 

I had however had great experiences over the years when rolling bbq convoys made their way up from the States to places like Toronto and Burlington.

There’s a reason these folks are known as “Pit Masters.” That title is earned and deserves to be taken as seriously as any chef title. You need a serious palate and the sensibility that only decades of experience can bring to get it right.

Mobeen (Moe), whose family is from Pakistan, told me about the tradition of charcoal grilling in his home country. When he chose to open his own restaurant almost four years ago, he decided to marry it to the flavours of southern American barbeque.

Moe’s BBQ is a Halal restaurant and in the current economic climate, this brings its own challenges. There is, of course, no pork on the menu so we’re left with chicken and beef. Beef prices have shot up by 30 percent the last year and Moe’s needs to pass it on to us. We may not like the increase but my feeling is: this is still a value proposition. The quality of the beef is first rate as is the execution.

Moes uses hickory and maple wood for their smoke recipes and it’s expertly done. Often, in lesser establishments, the barbeque character comes in the form of liquid smoke, a derivative that comes across as artificial and unpalatable. 

I’ll offer a general impression of the meat and say that from brisket to beef ribs to chicken, it’s all supple, moist and seasoned judiciously. Not too much smoke nor too much salt and yes, the ribs and chicken are best eaten off the bone. All meals come with the choice of two sides.

As good as the protein is, I’m not convinced that the sides play second fiddle. The baked beans, made with either pinto or navy beans, are made from dried beans leaving them with a little more starchy resistance when eating and are at this point, the nicest baked beans I’ve had. And what’s with their sauce? Add a straw to that.

The mac and cheese is mild but with sufficient flavour avoiding the insipid. It’s also cooked al dente for which I’m grateful. Coleslaw is a fresh and snappy side once again bragging about its homemade provenance. 

The quarter chicken leg is much larger than expected and the beef brisket is sliced thick. Any concerns about tenderness dissipate once you cut into these moist meats. The smoke ring around the brisket tells you what you need to know. It’s been prepared low and slow.

Decades ago I had the best bbq sauce of my life at the Kingston Brew Pub. They wouldn’t sell me a take-away container so I engaged in a little prevarication. The story was good enough that they agreed to sell some to me. Moe’s bbq sauce is at that level but you can get yours to take home for $5. No tall tales required.

You also need to try the city’s loveliest corn/cheddar and jalapeno bread. Moe’s life and business partner makes it daily and it offers the perfect balance of corn sweetness with a little heat.

Finally I need to say a few words about their smoked rice. They use a quality basmati rice laced with spices like cardamom and drippings from their smokers. For the love of all that is holy, this is a side dish that, for me, could double as a whole meal. I would just need more of it. 

This is humble cooking but when the execution is at this level, it deserves a few superlatives. For my money, these folks are delivering American BBQ for people with experienced palates. If you appreciate good barbeque, Moe’s is a hidden gem.

Suggested stories:

• Have a craving for spicy pork? Check out our review for Korean restaurant In’s Kitchen.

• Want a burger instead of BBQ? King Eddy has you covered with burger you need to try.

• Ramen and pork belly, there’s no better combo. Paper Tiger’s noodles are worth a visit.

DRINK

Holiday drinks that satisfy — without the booze

The holiday table is a place of coming together and we will have guests that don’t drink wine or beer. It seems unfair therefore that they make do with the standard pop or water. There are no-alcohol options for wine and beer, but for some it’s not a taste they like.

Over the last few months I’ve come across a few festive alternatives that readers may enjoy.

Schweppes has the distinction of being the first soda company to successfully maintain carbonation in glass bottles and they’ve been at it since 1783.

Throughout North America we know this brand through ginger ale, club soda and tonic water. That’s about it. In Europe the selection is much larger and in Poland they have access to some rather nice sparkling beverages.

Their Spritz is a take on the classic Italian Aperol Spritz. Aperol is a low-alcohol, slightly bitter aperitif developed in 1919 in Padua, Italy. Nowadays it’s enjoyed around the world as a brunch-time or after-work refresher. 

Spritz (available at Nicastro’s 1558 Merivale Rd. for $1.99) is the Schweppes take on the original and it does have a variety of botanicals but finishes with the classic bitterness we expect from tonic water. It really is a more sophisticated way to enjoy a soda. Let’s also keep it festive and serve this in a white wine glass or champagne flute.

Schweppes Mojito ($1.49) and the two Tymbark Po Prostu drinks ($1.99) are available at Polka Deli 1576 Walkley Rd.

The mojito has an uplifting lime profile with an extra refreshing kick from the added mint. Better still, the entire can has only 25 grams of sugar versus the average North American soda of 38-42 grams. 

The Polish beverage giant Tymbark has created something unique in the adult non-alcoholic drink space: sparkling apple-lemon sodas laced with hops and ingredients like juniper berry and blood orange. 

I admit that I love these products. They’re all natural, sophisticated, intriguingly delicious and only have a remarkable 2 grams of sugar per 500 ml can. Again, these products are best enjoyed in proper glassware so for the Po Prostu drinks a stemmed beer glass would be ideal.

You and your guests deserve it.

INSIDER EDTION

(Members only) This award-winning local chocolate leaves you buzzing

This story is for Insider members only. Become an Insider today to get access to some amazing perks. 

Founders Erica and Drew Gilmour started Hummingbird 10 years ago as newbies. They had careers working with farmers in Africa and Afghanistan but they had no idea about chocolate. Other than that, they enjoyed eating it.

Returning to Canada they realized that next careers would involve remaining connected to farmers and chocolate was their crop of choice. But they wanted to do it right. You see their award-winning chocolate almost everywhere. It is a premium priced product but if you've had the pleasure, you know it's worth it. 

Another way of experiencing this chocolate is by taking one of their Saturday morning tours. They cost $11.30 per person and are given by expert lead chocolate maker Eliza Badham.

READER’S FAVOURITES

Where Capital Eats readers get their ‘Za

Last week we asked readers their favourite pizza places. Here are the top favourites:

• Farinella, Pizza Nerds, Anthony’s and Tennessy Willems topped the list

A few reader recommendations that didn’t make the list:

• Stay Gold Detroit for Detroit-style pizza. Oh, and they have gluten-free options!

• Heartbreakers was another highly recommended favourite. They even have 4.8 stars on Google Maps.

Some recommendations for in different areas of Ottawa

• It sounds like Barrhaven residents really enjoy Juluca’s

• Louis Pizza in Vanier was a top choice

• Del PIacere and The Prescott in Little Italy

• One reader suggested O’Town Pizza in Alta Vista

If you enjoy pizza, you’ll love our Pizza Safari. Some are good, some are great. At the very least, you’ll discover some new places:

• Ottawa Pizza Safari - Part One

• Ottawa Pizza Safari - Part Two

VOTING

Where are you watching the World Cup?

This week’s question is about the big sports event: Where are you going to watch the World Cup in Ottawa? Bars, restaurants, we want to hear them all.

Let us know.

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