Parlê by Viet Fresh delivers "light and refreshing" Vietnamese food

Good morning,

It appears that I’m becoming a master of conflation so yes, a vacation is due. John Le Carre’s latest novel is called Silverview and not, as I had written in the last newsletter Silverlake. The Croatian wine import company is named Croatia Unpacked and not Croatia Uncorked. Take a tour through their easy-to-use website.

Since the pandemic, the Ontario government has loosened some restrictions on wine sales and it is now possible to buy single bottles rather than only full cases, directly from importers. I’m a big fan of Croatian wines and this is a good opportunity to learn more about this wine region.

I’ll be back with you in mid-September.

— Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor, Ottawa Lookout

[email protected]

PS — We’re in the midst of transitioning over our food content from Ottawa Lookout. Have a peek around the brand new Capital Eats website. It should be much easier to find food news.

VIETNAMESE FOOD

Parlê by Viet Fresh delivers "light and refreshing" Vietnamese food

• Appetizers: $8.49 - $9.99

• Mains: $11.99 - $19.99

• Diet: Vegetarian and gluten-free options

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes, with bathrooms downstairs

• LCBO Licensed: Yes

• Parlê by Viet Fresh

To my way of thinking, the increasing number of noodle shops in the ByWard Market is nothing but a good thing. Now there’s a new Vietnamese restaurant to help both pho lovers and Instagram accounts fill up.

Parlê by Viet Fresh had its soft opening in January, and it’s a strikingly appealing space with newly added murals by Ottawa-based African artist Alan Andre. The work is gorgeous and a reason in itself to stop by for a meal.

Co-owner David Wen is one of four partners in the multi-pronged enterprise under the name Viet Fresh. The other three came from hospitality and David, who also works as a realtor in both Ottawa and Toronto, received his civil engineering degree from the University of Ottawa.

David said their vision was to create a “newer generation style of Vietnamese food,” one he said they feel is “a healthy cuisine that’s light and refreshing.”

I’ve now been to Parlê a few times and it’s certainly a good option for those looking for a Vietnamese dining experience in the Market. The spring rolls were properly filled and nicely seasoned, as were the appetizer wontons.

The grilled pork in the vermicelli bowl was perfectly seasoned and delicious with the experience interrupted by one piece that was largely just gristle. The noodles were perfectly done but cut so small that it was impossible to eat them with chopsticks and so a spoon was used. This cutting of noodles also happens in too many Thai restaurants and it’s maddening, ruining the enjoyment of the dish.

As some may know, I have a fondness for banh mi sandwiches and I ordered a classic grilled pork. The bun was decent and better than many out there, but at $11.99 it was meagrely adorned with the middle third entirely without meat and filled only with pickled carrot. It was unsatisfactory and without hesitation, the server suggested another banh mi. A class move that should happen at more establishments. My new sandwich of Vietnamese cold cuts arrived soon after and was rather tasty.

On one visit I enjoyed a beef pho that was as good as many of those around town but on this occasion I opted for the chicken based seafood rice noodle soup. It was a large bowl with a proper, savory broth filled with shrimp, tender baby squid, a delicious assortment of fish balls and a surimi (imitation crab) of a superior quality.

As with most establishments MSG is used in the soups and in fact many folks will argue that it is part of the expected flavor profile. Well we can have a debate around that, but what is incontrovertible is that MSG makes you thirsty. That’s one test to determine how much has been used and here Parlê was in fact better than most and I was not left chugging pitchers of water. When it came to the soups however I do wish they would simmer the stocks longer for more extraction.

The drinks menu is standard with institution beers such as Sapporo and Molson Canadian on offer alongside wines such as Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc and Apothic Red. If you’re planning a visit, I recommend you double check the alcohol prices with your server. I ordered a 500 ml can of Sapporo and was charged more than the price on the menu. When I raised the issue, the server insisted there was nothing to be done.

The serving team is young and professionally attired and just the right amount of attention was paid. No hovering, something for which I am always grateful.

Parlê is getting a number of things right and where there are hiccups, it’s a matter of more managerial oversight in both the kitchen and front of house.

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