Head to Pizarro’s for that family feeling

• Name + address: Pizarro’s Italian Ristorante, 366 Marguerite Ave.

• Diet: Meat, seafood, vegetarian

• Appetizers: $6-$20

• Mains: $25-$38

• Wheelchair accessibility: No

• Website: www.pizarrosrestaurant.com

Based on the recommendation of an Italian friend when I lived in New Edinburgh, I ended up eating at Pizarro’s on a few occasions. 

It was always fair enough, if uninspired food and it offered old school cocktails such as a Rusty Nail and Singapore Slings for seven bucks.

The pandemic has come and gone and now the same drinks will set you back $10 but is it the food that has Pizarro’s maintain its loyal following?

Pizarro’s has given locals a welcoming dining experience for more than 30 years and its popularity does not appear to be waning. It’s situated in a residential area and that is likely a good part of its success. 

In Ottawa we need exactly more of this kind of thing. Restaurants and shops in residential neighbourhoods that make these communities more interesting and walkable and bring needed business. If only we had local politicians with even a modicum of imagination. 

It’s been more than 40 years since Aerosmith released “Dream On” and it may be another 40 before Ottawa sees politicians not beholden to developer interests. But let’s get to the heart of what’s to be found at Pizarro’s.

It turned out to be rather cool and rainy when I arrived and I knew that I would be having a soup of some sort. Just to take a little of the chill off the bones.

The front of the building had been upgraded since my last visit and boasted a new sign and entrance.

Upon walking in, there it was: that same friendly greeting I first experienced six years back. I was made to feel like a regular that had only last dined there a week ago.

I placed my order but first asked a few questions about the tortellini soup.  Was the soup stock made in house? Yes. The tortellini? No. All good and I really was looking forward to a fortifying broth.

Within just minutes the soup arrived alongside a caveat: the chicken stock was brought in from a supplier. I appreciated that the server took the time to double check and dove right in. There was also a side of freshly baked bun with butter and that’s always been a fine gesture courtesy of the kitchen.

The broth was nicer than I was expecting but it was clearly not housemade. Tortellini, especially when commercially made, can be tricky to cook through, but these were tender with a pleasant peppery meat filling. At $7.95 this was a fair enough trade.

For the main I chose the lunch special of farfalle (bowtie) pasta in meat sauce and a side salad for just under $20.

This was classic old-school diner salad. A plate of iceberg and romaine lettuce with radishes, carrots and bits of red pepper and onion, topped with an in-house Italian dressing.

For some palates this may read a little generic but I have a confession, I’ll take this any day over that nasty business called mesclun mix. Mesclun comes from the Portuguese word “mesclar” which means to “mix thoroughly” and while, when fresh, it can be lovely, too often I’ve had mouthfuls of decayed leaves. There was no such worry here.

Everything on that plate was at the peak of freshness and the dressing was simple and well balanced without an overarching acidity.

The pasta soon followed and from the sheen on the sauce I anticipated that it had been adulterated with a thickening agent like cornstarch. 

The bowtie noodles were too soft, the meat too modest and measured and the sauce too smooth. Of course a sauce is often smooth but even in traditionally made red sauce, you will find textures of tomato pulp. 

This sauce had been heavily processed and tasted as if sugar had been used to temper the acidity from the tomato. Yet both the beef and the sauce were rather bland. It all just tasted as if a jar had been opened and warmed through. Based on visits from years ago, I just don’t remember the sauce being like this.

If you’re looking for housemade pasta, Pizarro’s does make their own in the forms of manicotti, cannelloni and lasagna.

Pizarro’s offers food built for comfort and not adventure. It’s basic but served with warmth and when they ask “how is it?” they genuinely want to know. Here, the service is attentive and responsive to an almost uncommon degree and I think I know why.

This is a neighbourhood restaurant frequented by locals who’ve become regulars. Attentive service is built into these relationships.

On this visit Frank, one of the owners and cooks, came out of the kitchen to exchange pleasantries with a few of the regulars. That is a considerable part of Pizarro’s success. They understand the value of community because as much as for the food, that’s what their customers come for: the spirit of community and of family.

Suggested stories

• Take a deep dive into pasta making with Cibus.

• Roberto Pizza Romana in Chelsea makes for good lunch.

• Sitting down with North and Navy owner Adam Vettorel.