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A taste of Peruvian and culinary excellence at Raphaël

Chef Lizardo Becerra's Peruvian cuisine is an epiphany

  • Name + address: Raphaël Peruvian Cuisine, 200 Elgin St.

  • Type of food: Peruvian

  • Appetizers: $18-$29

  • Mains: $32-$51

  • Diet: Meat, seafood, limited vegetarian

  • Wheelchair accessibility: Yes with assistance. Scaffolding currently covering the entrance.

  • Licensed: Yes

  • Website: www.raphaelperuviancuisine.ca/

Like many folks, I spent a number of formative years around restaurant people and like any group, they come in all forms. There are chefs who are very precision-oriented in their approach to cuisine and there are those who cook from the gut and their family recipes. 

Then there are those that incorporate both approaches quite naturally and that was my experience meeting with chef Lizardo Becerra of Raphaël restaurant on Elgin St.

At a young age, his love of the kitchen arts became apparent when he started making dulce de leche cookies and selling them to his teachers and friends. 

Raphaël interior

Raphaël interior/Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

He was very close to his mother. “She was an extraordinary cook and my biggest inspiration,” he said. As someone who collected many of her family’s recipes, she was supportive of Lizardo’s desire to pursue a career in the culinary arts.

He enrolled in the culinary program at the San Ignacio de Loyola University in Lima and in 2011, did his masters training at the renowned Michelin-starred Villa Crespi in Orta San Giulia in Piedmont, Italy.

After then working at the equally esteemed Guido di Costiglioli in Cuneo (home to the white truffle festival) he returned to Peru. A few months later, he received a call that would change the direction of his life. It came from the Peruvian embassy here in Ottawa asking if he’d interview for the role of embassy chef.  

Becerra arrived in Ottawa on Feb. 27 (his birthday) of 2012 and would work for the Ambassador for the next four years.

He next worked under chef Stephen La Salle at the Andaz hotel. “ I learned so much working with Stephen and today we’re best friends,” he said.

Still, a desire to share his native Peruvian cuisine with Ottawans persisted and he operated Raphaël Express out of a commercial kitchen in City Centre. “It was very hard for people to find,” he recalls.

Years later, I found myself sitting with the man at his stylish restaurant, Raphaël on Elgin St. It’s named for his son, who now inspires Becerra in everything he does. 

Raphaëls Lizardo Becerra and Marie Dumont

Raphaëls Lizardo Becerra and Marie Dumont. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

I was also introduced to Marie Dumont, Becerra’s life and business partner and the restaurant’s general manager.  She is charm personified and is perhaps the friendliest face at an Ottawa restaurant I’ve yet come across.

She was helping the team in the service of some signature dishes and soon, I was looking at an abstract composition of sliced octopus, capers, olive oil, chimichurri and olive sauce all sprinkled with micro-greens. 

Raphaël octopus in olive sauce

Raphaël octopus in olive sauce. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

It really was a taste explosion with a foundation of intense umami courtesy of that beautiful swirl of olive sauce. It was made using a meaty olive native to Peru called Botija. Becerra laughed when he shared that many of his customers ask if they can buy some for home use.

The dish came with a trio of freshly made cassava chips that reminded me a little of prawn crackers. The pisco sour was the perfect drink to enjoy with this texturally rich and savoury starter.

Raphaël Chicha sour.

Raphaël Chicha sour. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

In fact, throughout my experience with the food, I had the feeling that cocktails were the way to go when dining at Raphaël.

I was next treated to another signature drink, the Chicha Sour. This had an added level of complexity as it had been made using a type of corn native to Peru called Morado. 

This corn is purple throughout and for this cocktail. It had been simmered with cinnamon, clove and sugar to create a syrup which lent a gorgeous colour to the table. It also added an almost mild tannin-like texture to the drink, which made me sip a little more cautiously, as I fully appreciated its grip on the palate.

Raphaël Mahi Mahi.

Raphaël Mahi Mahi. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The Mahi Mahi Tiradito was a pop art explosion of sun yellow, luminescent green and 70’s orange. It consisted of raw sliced Mahi Mahi interspersed with dots of sweet potato (cooked in orange syrup), avocado, and pieces of extra nutty toasted Pulpe corn.

This colliding of textures and flavours simply worked supremely well, and with each mouthful, I was treated to a new sensation.

Raphaël humboldt squid

Raphaël humboldt squid. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

In the world of seafood, Humboldt squid is not often seen on dinner plates as it can have its price for a restaurant. But it is madly delicious and worth exploring.

Here, it’s served marinated and lightly battered with crispy plantain chips and the nicest tartar sauce I’ve yet had anywhere in North America. This is the sauce I suggested they bottle.

The squid was so tender it almost fell apart with just the pressure of my tongue and what a perfect example of how squid should be fried. I was also quite glad to still be sipping on my Chicha Sour as it worked so well against the fried and delicate batter.

We were closing in on our third hour of meeting, and Becerra shared a few spots around town where he and Marie enjoyed having a meal. I was happy to see we were similarly oriented. Aiana, North and Navy, Thali, Sem Sem and Pizza Nerds along with Pho Bo Ga Express all make their short list. 

Raphaël beef anticucho

Raphaël beef anticucho. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The Anticucho plate was presented giving off delightful and enticing aromas of Aji Panca, a mild(ish) chili pepper grown in Peru. The skewer of flank steak arrived with fingerling potatoes, chimichurri and charred brussel sprouts with a sweet and creamy core. The sprouts may not have looked like much, but they were a highlight and a lovely surprise.

Raphaël Beso de Mosa.

Raphaël Beso de Mosa. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

While not generally a dessert person, I do feature them in this newsletter and with the Beso de Mosa (Kiss of a beautiful woman) I was prepared to make an exception.

His pastry chef was also one of his teachers at the university in Peru and once the idea of the restaurant was ready to launch, Becerra reached out, and a new collaboration was born.

He wanted a dessert version of a beloved childhood candy from Peru that involved marshmallow, chocolate and hazelnut with a chocolate graham cookie base. 

I could see his fondness for the candy and the memories it evoked for him on his face and it was that alone that convinced me I needed to experience it. I made a good decision.

First, I seldom eat desserts at restaurants as most don’t have a dedicated pastry chef but bring them in through commercial channels. Just not very interesting.

Here, this “Kiss of a beautiful woman” had been constructed in house with a luscious marshmallow base and all. They use a top quality 70% Callebaut dark chocolate throughout and the textures from the chocolate and hazelnut ganache to the sinful quenelle of gelato on the side were flawless. In fact, I’ve seldom had versions of these sweets that were so finely executed. 

As I write this now, I have a feeling that my desire to pair it with a sweet Spanish brandy might have had me heading for a lie down. Still…what a way to finish an exceptional experience.

Becerra and his expert team bring a level of honour and excellence to their native Peruvian traditions for which Ottawans can be grateful. This is cooking of a very high order and we are blessed that Raphaël has set a very high bar for Peruvian cuisine. 

I first became familiar with Lizardo Becerra a few years ago while covering Canada’s Great Kitchen Party and was immediately taken by his artful presentations and his understanding of flavour combinations.

On January 31st, he will represent our region at the Canadian Culinary Championship finals, which will be held at the Rogers Convention Centre (formerly Shaw). It’s premature to hazard any guesses, of course, but I have a very strong feeling that the crew from Raphaël are a serious contender for gold.

First I’d like to thank Marie Dumont, Lizardo Becerra,and his culinary team: Hibett Antiporta, Nico Soto, Norma Montenegro, Ronal Perez, Enzo Paz, Noelia Cardenas, Alonso Ruiz for allowing me this exceptional culinary journey. Their service team was excellent and ensured that everything flowed smoothly.

I’d also like to thank the folks at KOWPR for arranging this meeting. Finally, a few tickets remain for this two day event so feel free to explore Canada’s Great Kitchen Party for an event that suits you.

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