Reimagined pub food elevates local brewery À La Dérive

• À La Dérive, 1015 Rue Jacques Cartier

• Type of food: Upscale pub

• Appetizers: $5 -$13

• Mains: $14 - $26

• Diet: Modest selection of vegan/vegetarian options

• Wheelchair accessibility: no

• Licensed: Yes

• Website: À La Dérive

In 2017, our region and that of our neighbours across the river, were hit with severe flooding. All plans for installing an actual brewery at the site of À La Dérive were scuttled.

The old building was sufficiently damaged that it needed to be rebuilt and this meant it would no longer be coded for the type of venue they envisioned. The zoning restrictions were tougher. Luckily the team of young owners were invited to brew off-site and their beer now flows in an artfully rustic room that produces home-cooked comfort foods.

In French the name has a few different meanings but “adrift” may come closest as it suggests “going with the flow”.

This brew pub has a group of four owners behind it, each assigned to their areas of greatest expertise.

Mathias Samure-Groulx (restaurant manager), the most recent partner, started as a server when À La Dérive first opened in 2019. When one of the founding partners Martin Richer left the business, Mathias bought in.

Rounding out the team are Benoit Charron as general manager, Stephan Gandy an artist responsible for package design and events and Jean Francois Cardinal the brewer who graduated from the Niagara College school of brewing.

Server par excellence, Jonathan Monette is a qualified beer professional providing his consulting services to events like Festibiere. He also installed one of the region's greatest craft beer selections at the IGA in Cantley. Those who travel to cottage country will know what I mean.

It was Jonathan who introduced me this past summer to the beer of Le Prospecteur (Val d'or, Abitibi) catapulting that brewery into top spot for my favorite new brewery. He also has them on as one of more than ten rotating guest taps at À La Dérive.

On my last visit I enjoyed a pint of the Le Prospecteur Belgian-style wheat which paired so nicely in flavor and texture with my lunch of Pogo and fries.

At this point I should emphasize the crew here is interested in elevating your pub lunch experience. It may be food with which we are all familiar, but reimagined.

Pogos, a childhood favorite, are no longer made with hot dog meat but locally sourced pork sausage that is more gamey in taste. The cornmeal blanket is crunchy, tastes like corn and is certainly house made, as is the sharpish honey mustard and ketchup that act as the perfect dressings.

Eyeing the table next to mine, I was curious about the long slats of timber calling my name. I confirmed with Jonathan that these were the cajun yam fries and placed the order. They arrived on a platter in a cone of replicated newsprint, free of excess fat and crisp as could be.

The fries offered up a sweet and creamy center and the crisp coating, courtesy of a dusting of cornstarch before frying, gave the experience a satisfying crunch. I was grateful when I saw that the dip accompanying them was free of any trace of chipotle. Instead I had a house-made aioli mixed with a house barbecue sauce. Spoon food as far as I was concerned.

Enjoy a caesar salad here and you’ll get a classic version of very fresh romaine topped with in-house croutons, parmesan cheese, a cheese crisp and a terrific dressing made with anchovies.

Chicken wings are kept and served whole, allowing you to experience how easily they split at the joints and reveal the tenderness of the meat. They were oven baked and glazed in local honey and garlic rather than a high fructose based “honey” sauce out of a drum. What a difference the aroma of real honey makes when eating the humble chicken wing.

The fish and chips are a highlight. Made with locally caught walleye, the fish is flakey, rich tasting and ideal for frying with their beer batter second to none. The fries are as well done as anything else on their menu. This is comfort food thought through and executed with the care all food deserves.

Next year À La Dérive will be opening their brewery facility and 14-seat tap room on St. Joseph Boulevard. In three years of operation, they’ve produced a total of 32 beers and with a new brewery, brewer Jean Francois will be free to experiment further.

The beer here is big on flavour with no shortcuts taken on ingredients. These brews tend to run to the higher end of the beer alcohol spectrum so take heed and speak to Jonathan about what might pair best with your meal.

The arty upstairs space is ideal for larger groups of up to sixty people and there are further plans in 2023 to offer beer and food pairing events.

Several times during our talk Mathias emphasized the importance of building a cultural scene in Gatineau. With events such as Pointslandia (poetry readings and open mic), Book releases, live music and the whimsical Knitting and Beer festival (yes you read correctly), the team at À La Dérive are well on their way.