Review: Sushi Ro

For those who appreciate good sushi, there will simply never be enough sushi restaurants. Anywhere. I'm certainly not talking about “all you can eat sushi,” an abomination that for a whole host of legitimate reasons, should be outlawed. It does nothing for our oceans, for Japanese culture or for a good dining experience. End of rant.

We're fortunate that there are responsible restaurant owners who are interested in making a good name for themselves while becoming destinations in their own right.

Sushi Ro at 1123 Wellington St. W. is the kind of restaurant we all wish we had in our neighbourhood. A small 10-seat space, in calming tones with beautiful blonde wood chairs that happens to knock out some classic Japanese standards.

It has a quality you won't expect for the price. A place that you would frequent regularly because it offered consistent quality and value. Sushi Ro is simply very good and a new go-to favourite.

Agedashi tofu is lightly dusted in tapioca flour and flash-fried and handled so expertly that all these morsels remain attractively intact before giving over their delicate warm custard. The gyoza are similarly gossamer nestled in their tender wrappers. You'll enjoy the sweetness of the cabbage accented by modest seasonings and at $7 for each of these appetizers, they're a true bargain.

For the prices charged at Sushi Ro, the fish is better than you would normally expect. and in In fact, I've had worse experiences for considerably more money.

Take for example one of my favourites: Ika (squid). I order this because I love it and it pairs beautifully with sake but also because it provides some insight into the level of care a sushi chef puts into his or her buying. Ika should always be so tender that it is easy to chew and gives off a milky sweet cream as it dissolves over your palate. Over many visits to this restaurant, I've not once had a bad Ika experience.

I watch the staff behind the counter. No one says a word and I'm glad for the calm this room generates. There's no music, just you and the food. It might not be the intention of the folks behind Sushi Ro but this atmosphere quite naturally allows you to focus on the tastes and textures without distraction.

I once mentioned the great value of the $15 lunch at Kitchen Maroo., Well, here we also have a sushi lunch that won't break the bank. At $15.50 their combo of six maki rolls, five nigiri sushi along with soup and a crisp, colourful salad is a gift. By all means, do yourself a favour and try the bamboo shoot salad consisting of marinated shoots, soybeans and cucumber topped with soy chilli sauce, fried ginger, and green onion. It's rich in umami and will have you craving that bottle of sake.

Considering that this is not a dedicated ramen house, their bowls are good representations of the dish. The stock is less rich than ramen fans would typically want and the noodles, while al dente, were a little watery in taste. Chicken thigh pieces were nicely cured and grilled, and I was grateful for a broth that was not salty but balanced.

They also go above and beyond in the presentation of their food, all brought to you on or in proper stoneware. The chopsticks are attractively decorated and it's these little touches that really cemented the overall impression for me: when ownership puts effort into things that most people would overlook, you're likely to trust that they'll get the important things right.

Sushi Ro may not be in my neighbourhood but I find myself going frequently enough that I pretend it is. This small, attractively appointed room with good Japanese fare provides me with moments of respite, something I do just for myself. Perhaps you'll feel the same.