Under the delicious spell of the Black Walnut

On a recent road trip (more on that in a future edition) I was passing through Cumberland and I realized it was time to try the baked goods from the legendary Black Walnut Bakery at 979 Cameron St. in Cumberland. It was a weekday so there was parking to be had and that was a further incentive.

For anyone who’s made the trek to Cumberland precisely for their baked goods, you’ll know that the lines of customers can be daunting. On this day I got lucky and walked right up to the counter.

When you first walk in you are struck by the incredible range of breads and pastries offered by such a small space. When you visit their website you are further hit by an array of salads, sandwiches, soups and frozen takeaway items. This place is a gem.

What I didn’t know (for some reason) is that they also bake some of the finest breads to be found in Ottawa. 

Their rye bread is rich in sourdough aromas and the crust is sweet and nutty rusticity reminding me of the great German breads of my youth. It’s also a great bread that they sell for under $7 a loaf.

Black Walnut is famous for their brownies, a baked item that is not a favourite as they are generally heavy on both flour and third rate chocolate. Not so at Black Walnut. It was moist and gooey with good chocolate and an appealing melt. Walnuts, not being something I tolerate well, were used sparingly. I was grateful as I had neglected to ask.

Another item for which I reserve a great deal of disdain is the scone. It’s remarkable how many businesses create these dry dust packets of absolutely no appeal. I can just never get past the first bite. Until now.

I enjoyed a blackberry honey scone wherein the honey was not just a sweetener but a flavour component and that’s a rare thing.

Their butter tart was another winner and the closest I’ve come, locally, to the fine versions produced by Kathy Cassanto and available at the Carp Farmers Market.

The Black Walnut interpretation was rich with butter and a lusciously sweet filling that worked nicely with a cup of English tea.

The seasonal hot cross bun was delicate and mildly sweet with currants and the spices were fragrant and the pastry sumptuous, when warmed.

They also make a very nice pretzel in both sweet and savoury versions and my salty pretzel worked beautifully as a bread substitute for a ham, egg and cheese sandwich.

Given the distance to Black Walnut bakery and the inevitable lines once you arrive, the only danger is that you’re likely to over-order. Then, of course, it’s a matter of calculating how much space you have in your freezer.