Pür & Simple, Mellos

Good morning,

Ottawans, and Canadians in general I think, love their breakfast restaurants. We have a good representation in the capital with chains such as 7 AM Breakfast & Lunch, Stacked, Robin’s, Allo Mon Coco and Cora’s.

Then there are the many independent breakfast diners and today we have a review of a new chain restaurant and an Ottawa institution that may evoke memories for some readers.

Grab your brew and let’s have breakfast.

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. [email protected]

BREAKFAST

Pūr & Simple offers a worthwhile breakfast

• Name + address: Pūr & Simple, 970 Smyth Rd.

• Diet: Meat, vegetarian, seafood, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free

• Mains: $13-$22

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• Website: www.pursimple.com

• Other: Kids menu

I’ve not been to Florida but walking into Pür & Simple, I was half-expecting to see the Golden Girls sitting at a neighbouring table. There’s something sunny, breezy and not a little 80s about the design. This is Ottawa’s third location and in Elmvale Acres, it’s a very welcome addition.

In fact, although it only offers breakfast and lunch, it may be the nicest sit-down dining for miles around.

After a technical delay of a few weeks, the Quebec-based franchise chain Pür & Simple opened its doors in late November.

The space is attractively appointed and servers appeared efficient and well-presented with hardly a delay in getting a coffee in front of me. That would not be my experience on the second visit where more than 10 minutes passed, after being seated, before a server came by.

On this first occasion, I ordered a standard “Canadian” breakfast which came with bacon, sausage, ham and a choice of either pancake, half waffle or crepe. I opted for the crepe, which was pleasant enough. It was a nice touch that when I asked, they did bring actual maple syrup to replace the “syrup” they typically serve.

As it is a franchise operation, the ownership is dependent on the suppliers contracted by the company and here the breakfast meats could have been worse. They were fine but not elevated examples of sausage, ham or bacon. I was a little surprised, however to find that in addition to three rashers of bacon, only one sausage and a very thin slice of ham graced the plate. Just a little shy for a $20 serving.

As usual, I ordered my eggs softly poached, and they were, but they also arrived in a bath of tepid water. In all of cookery, this is one of the most avoidable yet egregious oversights, and it should never happen. I no longer have a tolerance for this practice and as the owner was present, I shared my view on it, something that could and should be improved. He apologized. 

They offer a variety of coffee styles via their commercial Nespresso machine and the Americano was very nice. They also have a house blend of brewed coffee that also does a good job of satisfying the average coffee aficionado.

On the next visit we were seated by a courteous young man who left but immediately returned with a business card that had his name scrawled on it. He suggested that I scan the QR in order to leave a review about his service. If this is a company policy, I recommend that they immediately cease this practice. Visitors are here to enjoy a meal, not to receive an assignment.

The Norwegian Eggs Benedict came with pickled onions (thinly sliced sweet onion would have been preferred), a decent enough mass-produced smoked salmon atop two halves of English muffin that would have benefitted from some toasting. 

The eggs were perfectly poached and bathed in Hollandaise sauce that the server admitted was made from a powdered mix. Due to liability concerns, most restaurants take this short cut and I’m not on board with it. 

They advertise that they’re famous for their potatoes and they were lovely, crisp little cubes with a pillowy centre. I was told that it’s the seasoning that makes them famous, but on both visits that magical powder was scant in evidence with only the occasional bite delivering the flavour.

I also wanted to try one of their wraps and went with a grilled chicken called the Cluck Norris Wrap. Why? We’ll never know, but it was fresh and mois,t and although advertised as coming with fries, I was given the option of adding an alternate side, and so I asked for the fruit bowl.

This was the right choice. The fruit was very fresh and plentiful and it was the right way to end the meal.

If I’ve expressed criticism of some items/services at Pūr & Simple, it’s because they’re starting off on the right foot in so many other ways. It’s an attractive space in which to dine, and they do have some professional service with food and drink a cut above. A little fine-tuning is all that’s required. 

BREAKFAST

Mellos Coffee Shop is a memorable step back in time to when breakfast was affordable

• Name + address: Mellos Coffee Shop, 1516 Merivale Rd.

• Diet: Meat and a modest selection of vegetarian options

• Mains: $ $3.75-$11.75

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• Website: www.facebook.com/p/Mellos-Coffee-Shop-100067750702694/

• Other: Kids menu

Everything old is new again. Or in the case of Mellos Coffee Shop – “cool” again.

Mellos has been on the scene for 60 years, and while you’ll see any number of seniors enjoying breakfast or lunch, owner Phil Giakoumelos tells me that it’s people in their 20s who are discovering the joys of an old-fashioned diner.

His father, Dennis (91), still works the room and he’s a wealth of stories from all the decades that have passed. It was his uncle who opened the original Mellos on Dalhousie in the late 50s before selling it and opening Mellos on Merivale in 1964.

I admit that over the last few years, I’ve become a little more nostalgic for gentler times. Every era experiences conflict but the level of venal incivility of the last years is new in my lifetime. 

So, to counter that, I do what I can to add to the life of the city and in an effort at self-care, watch older movies without the frenetic editing, listen to music played on acoustic instruments or take in a leisurely breakfast at a diner that might have been a set in a David Lynch (RIP) film.

It’s more than the unchanged decor at Mellos, it’s the space itself that feels saturated with stories of many lives lived. I’m just one of many that have come and gone and it’s that feeling of belonging to the past as much as to the future that allowed me to relax into my breakfast.

The prices as well, seem to have not changed at all over the years with my breakfast costing a very reasonable $8.85. In fact the majority of the menu is priced under $10 and for the money the experience is respectable. 

I asked for poached eggs, and it’s common now to find some eateries using an egg-poaching device. It’s not at all the experience of a properly poached egg but it was cooked as requested and came with a side of standard breakfast sausages.

The potatoes were very good, and it would be nice if more places made an effort to cook and season their potatoes properly.

I’m more than a little picky when it comes to coffee so imagine my surprise when I was drinking diner coffee that had me writing a note in my book about how decent it was. We know what to expect with such coffee and it wasn’t because I was in a sentimental mood that the coffee tasted good. 

I’m glad I stopped in. You’ll enjoy classic diner staples that are well cooked, and if you’re open to it, even hear a few stories from Dennis about his 60 years at Mellos. Respect.

Suggested stories

• Allô mon Coco may be a chain but they make an effort at better than average food.

• Stacked Pancake House is yet another breakfast chain that recently arrived.

FROM THE ARCHIVE

Chesterfields Gastro Diner is a generational family favourite

Chesterfields Gastro Diner recently moved locations and I happened to arrive for a meal on opening day.

Around me, locals and regulars were seated recollecting how this place was a “family favourite” for a generation when it was still Won Ton House. Over on one wall, you can still take in the aerial photo mural of Hong Kong at night.

The menu is fairly tight and that’s to be appreciated for a breakfast/brunch spot. Each meal is served with either one or two sides, but you can always add more for a small upcharge.

QUICK BITES

• The Ottawa Mission has a food training services program for the homeless or those at risk. Recent graduates were feted and and hopefully launched in a new direction. [City News]

• St. Louis Bar and Grill on Elgin is the latest restaurant to close permanently. [Head Topics]

• Ottawa Street Markets has a new pick up location for their online products at Pot and Pantry 254 Elgin St.

• If you’re interested in wine news you’ll benefit from watching this video on the struggles facing the California wine industry. [YouTube]

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