Skewer Mania

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Good morning,

Lookout and Capital Eats managing editor Geoff here subbing in today’s intro.

— Geoff Sharpe, Lookout and Capital Eats managing editor

CHINESE

Skewer Mania has more than just Chinese skewers

Skewer Mania opened without fanfare just six weeks ago but people are discovering its modest but well-prepared items. 

Situated at the back of a building, in the space once occupied by a momo dumpling restaurant, Skewer Mania is attempting to improve its visibility by offering large signage on the front facing Merivale.

I would order a diverse range of items, and as the food started to roll out, I realized I must have been in the mood for garlic. You’ll see what I mean.

The pork belly skewers were the first to come out, and after a few bites, I was asked by the server if the spice level was okay for “Canadians”. I laughed and told her that I expected it would be fine for most people. There was a little creeping heat, but mostly from Sichuan peppercorns.

The pork was nicely grilled, and with most of the fat rendered out, it was still moist enough and rather enjoyable.

The lamb skewers fared less well. The meat was relatively modest and because it was so thin, the lamb was a little too dry and difficult to remove from the skewer.

You can’t go for Northern Chinese food and not try the dumplings, so I went with pork and corn and it may not have been the best choice. 

The dough was competent, shying away from being too stodgy and the pork was moist, but the corn was not the freshest. Even when frozen or canned, it is possible to find a better quality, and here the corn just felt gummy. The accompanying black dipping vinegar was very good, however.

The grilled eggplant was one of those garlic dishes that really delivered. Early in life I’d had enough bad eggplant experiences to last me a lifetime. For decades, I didn’t eat the stuff but then I had young and slender eggplant in some Thai dishes and I’ve been a convert ever since.

This dish could have been softened a little more but it was a fragrant and luscious experience and I cleaned the plate.

The garlic fest was about to really begin with the clams with chili and garlic. For $13, this was a bargain for fresh clams, sweet and tender and in this amount.

You’ll want rice to sop up the buttery sauce but better still, I took home the remainder and made a terrific linguine con vongole. Imagine, you can get a little over a pound of clams, already cooked for you in a delicious sauce, and all you need to do is add some cooked pasta and parsley. Dinner for two is served.

Further along the menu, I was struck by the words “Old Style Rice” which, of course, came with garlic sauce. As there was no description, and since through my hundreds of Asian food adventures I’d never seen such a name, my curiosity got the better of me. I blindly dove in.

It arrived as a bowl of short-grain rice which had come perilously close to being overcooked. That delicious garlic was all over it along with redskin peanuts, chopped iceberg lettuce, a Chinese version of Spam and a fried egg. A breakfast dish perhaps.

I was advised to mix it all together and boy if it didn’t work. My only quibble was with the choice of tinned meat. I didn’t know how to place the taste or texture. It’s not that it was off, it was simply causing my imagination to work overtime trying to come to terms with the experience. It was distracting. 

One thing to bear in mind is that it’s likely best to go with a few friends. These dishes came out in quick succession and soon my table was full with some items turning cold before I could get to them. 

They do provide you with little boxed heaters covered in foil and powered by tealights for your skewers, but my tip for solo diners is to order just one or two items at a time.

Skewer Mania is in an awkward location, but it’s my hope that this modestly priced but delicious eatery will find a regular audience.

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NEW OPENING

A Bangladeshi buffet

A few weeks back a number of members of Parliament and a few members of the media were invited to experience a new Bangladeshi restaurant at 164 Laurier Ave W., called Laurier B International. It was a buffet set up for the launch so this is not so much a review as a PSA letting Capital Eats readers know that there’s a new spot in Ottawa’s downtown for those business lunches.

Owner Hamayun Kabir has some veteran talent in the business. His uncle opened Mukut restaurant in Ottawa 43 years ago, winning a local award as best Indian restaurant in 2002.

Kabir told me that he named his restaurant after the Laurier location, the fact that it is a Bangladeshi buffet and that he has international influences in the cooking. 

Many from Ottawa’s Bangladeshi community enjoyed themselves and a councillor from Kingston made the trip in support of Mr. Kabir's new venture.

At some point I look forward to trying items off the a la carte menu to see what this kitchen can produce.

QUICK BITES

• Lizardo Becerra the talent behind Raphael Peruvian on Elgin, will be launching Barrio on Rideau St. [CTV]

• Chuck’s Roadhouse has opened a 4th location in the ByWard Market. [CTV]

• The travesty that is the ByWard Market is reflected in this piece by the Toronto entrepreneur behind Hooked Seafood and the sad state of Kensington Market. The parallels are uncanny and sadly, not surprising. [Toronto Life]

• Grey Goose Vodka has always been a marketing play and this story shows you why. [YouTube]

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