A new Spark in Chinatown

Good morning,

One of the good things about traveling the city is meeting new folks who are happy to share their finds and even give you a bump on some news.

In the summer I’d heard a rumour that there was to be a new Vietnamese Pho house opening at the Emerald Plaza on Merivale Rd. I drove by but found nothing.

Then, just a few days ago I met the hostess of a new dim sum restaurant and she confirmed that an acquaintance of hers is in fact opening this new Vietnamese restaurant. She expects it to launch by next March.

But on to the newsletter, where I give you some brief impressions of Spark Beer on Somerset and introduce you to another fine fish cannery from Vancouver Island.

— Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. [email protected]

BEER

A Sparkling good time

• Name + address: Spark Beer, 702 Somerset St. W.

• Type of food: Pizza and snacks

• Pizza: $15 - $19

• Snacks: $6 - $12

• Diet: Vegetarian options

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes. Washrooms downstairs.

• LCBO Licensed: Yes

• Website: Spark Beer

Spark Beer is a business that reveals its facets like a slow moving kaleidoscope. One interesting side at a time. Empty bottles of Cantillon (the legendary Belgian producer of sour beers) on the shelves, a Devo album cover on display, 70s funk and soul on the stereo infusing a tastefully appointed room of mid-century modern design.

They specialize in sour beer but also produce terrific brews for those who enjoy IPAs or even milder malt-forward brews such as their Tomfoolery English Mild.

Owners Andrea Gormley and John Sproull are certainly sharing some of their interests with the consuming public when they demonstrate their love for singer-songwriter Aimee Mann by naming some of their beer after her songs. I knew their beer was good but Aimee Mann was the hook.

Then they introduced their new menu item: pizza. I made my way down and was impressed by the room with its muted tones and elegant furnishings. This was an added bonus to the introductory price of $20 for a pizza and a beer pour.

I started with their new Better Late Than Never Blood Orange IPA on draft. This was a soft, hazy drink with plenty of blood orange and the juicy aromas lept from the glass. Really nicely done with the IBUs being kept modest, it was the right IPA for me.

The Even Downtown mango/pineapple/tangerine was mildly sour and felt entirely tropical. No one fruit stood out but it was balanced and was a fine counterpoint to the pizza that was to come.

As this was the first evening of their pizza launch I went all in with their spiciest “The Number One Pizza in Heaven.” A 10-inch round, loaded with pepperoni cups, house pickled jalapeno, Korean chili, honey drizzle, fresh oregano and parmesan cheese.

When it arrived I had to concede that it looked pretty darn good and took my first bite. All I could taste was something charred. I looked at the underside and almost the entire surface was black.

A restaurant might very well have a good pizzaiolo but it takes a while for even the best to understand the temperament of a new oven. It’s just how it is.

Julia, the tap room manager, came by and immediately offered to have it re-made. I’d met her once before at a beer festival and was impressed even then by her professionalism and her effortless talent in working with the public.

The pizza returned and I was delighted by the melange of flavours. How I appreciated the fresh oregano and the fact the jalapenos didn’t taste like they came from a jar. The sauce was fresh and the dough light and chewy. The dried Korean chili was not in flakes as described but widely cut pieces that were unpleasant to chew and I left them aside. The honey was the right touch to take down the heat. Pretty delicious.

They also offer snacks in the form of ripple chips and onion dip, a board with cheese from Les Folies Bergeres and kielbasa sausage w/ crostini and cornichon, as well as steamed hot dogs and veggie dogs.

It’s also decent of Spark to distinguish on their menu, between draft beer and bottle pours. It shows respect for the customer and demonstrates that they take their craft seriously. In my search for quality German style beers in Ottawa, their Sparktoberfest hit all the right notes for strength, maltiness and authenticity.

This place speaks to my sensibilities. From the music to the aesthetics to the beer and pizza, Spark Beer has made a new convert.

GIFTS

Seafood gifts for the holidays

While compiling suggestions for the holidays, I remembered the seafood products I would buy from St. Jean’s Cannery during my time in Vancouver. I reached out to them and they were keen for sharp Ottawa foodies to get familiar with their products.

I would buy their canned clam nectar and butter clams and make just a knockout clam chowder. In fact I don’t know of another cannery packaging the unique butter clam but it’s worth your while.

St. Jean's cannery was started in 1961 by Armand St. Jean, a Quebecer whose early life reads like a movie script: part wrestler, part adventurer. In the 1930s and 40s he crossed Canada working as a fruit picker, miner, bouncer, bartender and carpenter. By the 1950’s he moved his family to Vancouver Island and created the cannery we know today.

Since I first became a customer they’ve really expanded their product line which now includes packaged hot smoked and candied salmon.

I took a small package of their candied salmon and created this delicious holiday spread for you to enjoy with your guests.

Ralf's Candied Salmon Spread

• 113 g package of St. Jean’s Smoked Candied Pink Salmon

• 200 g package of organic cream cheese

• 1 large shallot finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons butter for sauteeing

• 2 tablespoons maple syrup

• 1 tablespoon freshly pressed lemon juice (optional)

Instructions:

• In a large bowl break apart the salmon with a fork until fine.

• Add cream cheese and blend until your desired consistency.

• Take 2 tablespoons butter to a pan and saute the shallot until translucent.

• Add 2 tablespoons maple syrup and reduce until thick but still runny.

• If you need your spread to be a little brighter, add the lemon juice at this point.

• Place spread in a decorative bowl.

• Top with the maple shallots and serve with baguette or gluten-free crackers.

I do recommend using a cream cheese that is organic or does not contain a thickener called carrageenan. There’s absolutely no legitimate reason for this thickener to be in any dairy products. You’ll always have a nicer tasting result in the end.

St. Jean’s has a diversity of products ideal as gifts or items for your kitchen such as smoked oysters or mussels as well as seasonings and condiments.

They’ve also made an offer to Capital Eats/Ottawa Lookout readers for 10 percent off when using the promo code: lookout4seafood. The offer is available until the end of December and can be used once per customer.

Eat well and enjoy…

INSIDER EDITION

(Members Only) Noodles with your Banh Mi? Yes!

This story is for Insider members only. Become an Insider today to get access to some amazing perks.

Vietnamese food specialist and proprietor of Banh Mi Yes, Phoebe Ha, has not slowed down since her return from Vietnam this summer.

She continues to recipe-test, not just on the new dishes she’s introducing, but on the breads she bakes fresh to order each day. Something for which she’s become a little bit famous.

Those of you who know her delicious sandwiches will have seen how they’ve grown in size. If you miss the regular sized sandwiches there’s good news, they will be returning but the large will still be on the menu.

READER’S FAVOURITES

Where to watch the World Cup

Readers suggested a few places to check out the World Cup:

• Braumeister on Scott Street,

• Senate Tavern has many TVs so you won’t miss out on watching the game

If you’re a Portugal fan, or just love Portuguese food, check out our review of Olitos Cafe on 110 Bearbrook Rd. It’s a good place to watch the game.

VOTING

What is your favourite local butcher?

Christmas is still a ways off, but it’s never too early to start thinking about your holiday dinner plans. Local butchers are the perfect place to score the best meat for the holidays — what’s your favourite local butcher in Ottawa? Let us know.

PREVIOUS STORIES

• (Insiders only) Banh Mi Yes looks to expand locations and offerings

• Moe's BBQ offers more than just meats

• (Insiders only) Could this high-end restaurant be the most beautiful in the region?

• Where to find authentic Mexican food

• Tacos and tortilla soup shine at El Taco de Oro